After many helpings of leftover Thanksgiving turkey, it was high time for Lolita to feed her inner barbarian by diving into a steaming hot plate of RED MEAT. Steak, baby — that’s what I wanted. The husbandman suggested “beef tips and gravy over rice,” reminiscing as he was about similar meals made in his childhood redneck home, but if you read my blog often enough you know I’m not really a rice fan. Risotto? Sure! Sticky rice? Certainly! Chicken and rice? OK! But rice rice, ala Uncle Ben’s or Minute or some such derivation I just don’t ever feel a hankering for. Perhaps it’s because my childhood Puerto Rican home saw rice and beans on every lunch and dinner plate throughout my *entire* youth, and I just got plumb sick of it. In particular, “rice and gravy” just sounds bland, boring, and blech to me – even more so now that some big-time soup comany has been advertising what a “great meal” spilling a hot can of their Vegetable Beef soup over rice can be for the “working mother”. The commercial, which is supposed to draw me in and make me crave this fare, frankly turns me off – for various food-snob reasons I best keep to myself. So I compromised and suggested beef tips in gravy over mashed potatoes. Since no food would be made or consumed in our household if I didn’t make it, he was rather compelled to agree – if he wanted to eat, that is. And eat we did: perfectly tender morsels of medium-rare sirloin bathed in rich beef gravy studded with button mushrooms and cippolini onions, served over steaming cheddar-enriched mashed potatoes, accompanied by a fresh and nutty arugula salad.
Steak Tips, Savory Mushroom Sauce, Cheddar Mashed, Arugula Salad
3/4lb sirloin tips
10oz button mushrooms
3 cloves garlic
5-6 cippolini onions
1 quart beef broth
1 lb yellow potatoes
2 tbs butter
1 heaping tablespoon flour
3 cups turkey/chicken stock
4oz sour cream
4oz cheddar cheese
EVOO, sea salt, cracked black pepper
1 medium tomato
parmigiano reggiano cheese, for shaving
The potatoes will take a while to boil down, as will the gravy which will be reduced almost entirely from my quart of beef stock, so I start by washing and roughly cutting my potatoes and peeling and smashing my garlic.
The garlic gets minced, the onions peeled, and the mushrooms scrubbed. I also cut the largest mushrooms in half, but keep the smaller ones whole. I love whole mushrooms.
First, I bring my chicken stock (leftover from Thanksgiving) to a boil – adding enough water to raise the volume enough to cover my spuds, which I throw in and cook until they can be easily pierced with a fork — about 20 minutes.
In a large non-stick frying pan, I soften my garlic in some EVOO for a moment before adding the onions and mushrooms…
… along with about 1/2 of the beef stock. I set this over high heat and stir often, until reduced by half, before I add the rest of the stock and do the same. I’m trying to concentrate the flavors by removing as much water from the stock as possible, and the longer steaming time required to reduce this by halves will help the mushrooms absorb all that flavor until they’re completely cooked through. The onions will soften nicely as well. This takes about 20 minutes total.
Now that the glorious flavors are rich and deep, I want to thicken my sauce. First thing I do, though, is remove most of the garlic by fishing it out with a strainer. Why? Because, I admit I think I added too much garlic, since the redolence of it wafting through my kitchen was so strong, so I removed the solids in the hopes this would add balance. It did. Anyway, to thicken, I needed something akin to a roux; this is how I do it when I’ve already got a hot liquid on the stovetop. In a very small bowl, I add my flour and 1 tablespoon of butter…
… and using a deep spoon (I keep those plastic Japanese soup spoons in the kitchen for this reason), I fish out some of my boiling hot gravy and add it to the bowl with the flour and butter.
The heat from the gravy melts the butter, and using a fork I mix the contents of the bowl into a smooth slurry…
… before adding it to the rest of the gravy in the pan and mixing well. This stays bubbling over high heat, which will thicken the sauce.
There was an unfortunate vein of cartilage (OK, I know I’m mixing my anatomical metaphors there, but you know what I mean) through part of one of these sirloin strips, but otherwise they were things of beauty. I cut them into cubes and season them with salt and pepper before…
… throwing them into a very hot non-stick pan and searing them fully on each edge.
It only takes about 5 minutes to cook these tidbits, which I then add to the mushroom gravy for a couple minutes (not enough time to remove all the pink on the inside, but long enough to allow them to soak up some of the sauce.
Meanwhile, I make the husbandman mash the potatoes (perhaps an indelicate thing to do, considering he wanted rice, but he manned up). After draining all the water/stock, he adds enough sour cream and butter to make the potatoes creamy, then shreds the cheddar cheese into the mix. And that’s it; mashed potatoes are so elegantly easy to make.
A side salad to accompany this meal is definitely in order, but I don’t want to go overboard. Arugula has just the right tang for savory steak, and brightening it with a squeeze of lemon, some fresh sliced red tomato, and some slivered onions is almost all it needs. But the added bonus of some shaved parmigiano reggiano cheese, to add salt and nuttiness, brings it over the top.
I remember going to Golden Corral as a kid and thinking their all-you-can-eat salad bar and “made to order” steaks were the highest of culinary delight. My favorite dish was always the steak tips in mushroom gravy, which were delivered to the table from the kitchen in these cool little cast-iron skillets. I thought it was comfort food at its best. Ah, youth! My mother-in-law still enjoys her Golden Corral, so I daresay she’d enjoy this homage to those youthful pleasures, and I hope she’d appreciate the difference between their mass-produced stuff and my homemade version. My bites of sirloin are crusty-seared without and shot through with pink within, and the mushrooms burst on the tongue with rich beef, garlic, and onion flavor. The smooth gravy absolutely demands to be sopped up by the cheesy potatoes, and the fresh green salad offsets all the richness just right. This isn’t a Weeknight Wondermeal because it calls for a decent amount of ingredients, but on the whole it’s a pretty simple dinner to assemble – and it can be pretty cheap. After days and days of leftover white meat, this is exactly the red meat I needed to put Thanksgiving away until next year.