Even though “crab” is the first word in tonight’s plat du jour, the real star of any Benedict is EGG. If you are like me, you have only an 80% success rate cracking eggs without breaking the yolk; to whit, tonight I went through about a dozen eggs in the service of this meal – only 9 of which actually made it to table, in one way or the other. But boy oh boy was it worth it! The number of ingredients in this meal is relatively low, but the effort is high – very very high. This is not an easy meal to execute – especially if you make everything from scratch. I realized at the last moment that I really needed at least 6 hands to make everything come out hot together, so I had to pull the husbandman in as a pinch flipper/whisker. For once, his incessant “Is there anything I can do to help?” query (which I always flatly refuse, totalitarian that I am) met with a begrudging “Yes.” Clayton found himself flipping the crab cakes, and whisking the latter end of the sauce – which he did quite to my exact instructions…which I barked, admittedly, rather frenetically, in the heat of the moment as it were. But when he and I both released our streaming golden egg yolks over our crispy crab-filled patties, and bathed our sweet-tender shellfish sinews with lemony yellow Hollandaise ooze, and entrapped sensational deliciousness between speared forkfuls of hot-toasted buttered muffins, I had to admit each mouthful was worth having to ask for a hand, and he had to admit each bite was worth my unnecessarily, and undeserved, rancorous tone of voice.
Crab Cakes Benedict
1 lb king crab legs
1 can beer
1 cup panko breadcrumbs, divided
1 tsp Grey Poupon mustard
2 tbs mayonnaise
5 whole eggs, 4 egg yolks
1 cup minced green onion, divided
paprika, sea salt, cracked black pepper
3 tbs fresh lemon juice
1 stick + 2 tbs melted butter
2 tbs EVOO
2 English muffins
Whole Foods was still running their $14/lb special on king crab legs, so I had to buy me at least one more pound before they went back up in price. I am fascinated by this creature, not only because of its deliciousness, but because of how much work it takes to get to that deliciousness. These spiny legs with their sharp claws were a challenge to hold, but worth the effort considering how succulent their flesh was.
I steam them for about 5 minutes with the contents of a can of beer and some water added to increase the volume to about 3 cups of liquid total.
Using my kitchen shears to get into each shell, I carefully remove as much meat as I can from the legs and knuckles — all the way up to their very sharp tips, which I managed to pull out entirely unbroken. My pound of legs yields about 3/4 lb of meat.
Here I have 1/2 of my chopped green onion, my mustard, mayo, one whole egg, 1/2 cup of panko breadcrumbs, some salt, pepper, and about a 1/2 tsp of paprika. I mix this all together, then add about 1/2 pound of crab meat (reserving some for my dinner tomorrow – why not?), and toss lightly together until just blended. The mixture is wet, which is good…
… because I’m going to make the patties by rolling loosely packed handfuls of mixture in another layer of panko. I have to work gingerly, since there is so much crabmeat here the cakes don’t really want to stick together, but the outer breadcrumbs will help them retain their shape. I make 4 patties, about 1/4lb each, put them on a paper plate and then throw them in the freezer for about 20 minutes to help them set even more.
Before I start cracking those babies, I get everything else ready to go. I need to melt my stick of butter for the sauce, I need to set up poaching liquid for the eggs, a double-boiler for the sauce, and a pan for the crab cakes. Since I don’t have fancy crap, I jerry-rig stuff, using my metal tongs and a small metal bowl to melt the butter over the 4 cups of water + 1 tbs white vinegar I’m bringing to a boil for the poaching, and a small saucepan 1/2 filled with water to bring to a simmer under a way-too-large metal bowl to make the Hollandaise.
I also fish out these egg-poachers I purchased a while back. When I make only 1 poached egg at a time, I just create a vortex in the saucepan by whisking the simmering water into a funnel, into which I drop my egg; making 4 poached eggs won’t work that way, especially since I don’t have any real way to hold the eggs once they’re cooked without either cooling them down too much or them continuing to cook. As it is, I still have to make these in shifts — so the poaching is the last thing I’m going to do. These aren’t perfect, but they do the job. I spray each down with Pam, which will help the eggs slide into the water when I want them to. But I’m getting ahead of myself here…
First, I carefully separate 4 of my eggs, discarding the whites and trapping the yolks in the large bowl I’m using as a double-boiler. I add my lemon juice to the pan before whisking everything together and placing it over the simmering water in my small saucepan. It’s imperative the hot water doesn’t touch the bottom of the bowl, or the eggs might scramble; if they do, adding a little bit of hot water and whisking vigorously will usually smoothen the emulsion back out.
Like so. While I whisk, I add my melted stick of butter in a steady, fine stream, adding more water as needed to keep the sauce the right consistency. It takes about 10 minutes of constant whisking to make this sauce – which will thicken upon standing. (For a more in-depth look at how to make a Hollandaise sauce, check out this posting.)
Meanwhile, I’ve melted 1 tbs butter with my EVOO in my non-stick pan, and have gently placed my half-frozen crab cake patties into the hot fat. They sizzle temptingly, and after about 5 minutes they are the perfect golden brown for flipping.
At the same time, I get my poached eggs started, first by floating them whole (with unbroken yolks) in their little green vessels in my barely simmering (never boiling) water, just long enough to see the whites start to congeal. When the edges are just white, I tip a little hot water into each vessel to help capture some form, before I tilt the vessels over one at a time, dumping the eggs into the vinegar’d water to poach through completely. Once I see the whites completely congealed, but the yolks are still *very* runny — about 2 minutes — I fish each egg out with a slotted spoon.
The final component of my Benedict is, of course, the English muffin base. Trader Joe’s has named their muffins after two Victorian British Prime Ministers, Benjamin Disreali and William Gladstone. I don’t know why, but it makes me love this product all the more! (These guys represent the British Government active during the time of my scholarly research into cholera in 19th century British literature, so they already have a warm place in my heart – mistaken miasmatists that they were.) I split two muffins, toast them, and sprinkle my last tablespoon of melted butter into their nooks and crannies.
On top of each muffin goes a crab cake, and on top of each crab cake goes a perfectly poached egg. On top of each stack I pour my lemony sauce, and scatter the remaining scallions along with some paprika and black pepper.
It seems that the barest pressure — that of my ravenous glance — is all it takes for the trembling golden yolks to burst from their quivering white confines to pour lasciviously over cake, muffin, and plate. The cakes are super-crunchy and filled with huge bites of tender, buttery crab meat, and the toasted buttered muffins are the perfect starch to sop up the rich flavors of the sauce. Crab cakes out in the world are so often disappointing: too much bread, too many ingredients, a harsh overpowering mustard sauce that cancels out the sweet sweet crab meat. But these were the best I’ve ever had, made even more spectacular by the perfectly complimentary egg yolk and bright silky sauce. I admit it: I licked my plate. But so did Clayton. And, dear reader, if you make this dish — so will you.