Lockdown Hash

It has been one hell of a week here in Boston. Bombings set off on Monday, our noble Marathon violently marred, death and dismemberment brought home to children and other innocents, and terror injected into our Beantown lifeblood like intravenous drugs designed to heighten anxiety and stress. Last night and all of today has been all about police action, high emergency, and triage; one cop has been killed, others are seriously injured, shootouts have exploded and explosions have been hurled, and there has been an unprecedented complete and total lockdown of 6 different communities — including mine — within our fair borders. We have been held captive all week in a true siege perilous, literally and figuratively: this most ancient seat of our young nation is undeniably under attack. I worry about my neighbors, I worry about my Harvard kids, I worry about my friends. I worry about this boy, this fresh-faced, nice looking, by-all-accounts good boy who is hiding among us somewhere… waiting, maybe? Planning, maybe? Or scared and alone and hurt? I can’t not care; he looks so much like he could be one of my students. My little haven, my home, is 5 blocks away in one direction from the merciless fatal shooting of MIT policeman Sean Collier, and 5 blocks away in another direction from the merciful release of the carjacking victim which the news is, at this time (6:57pm EST), still surprisingly silent about. Needless to say, Clayton and I have stayed safely indoors, and totally glued to the TV, waiting until our beloved neighborhood is safe again.

Luckily, we had a dozen eggs and a handful of random items in the fridge to make both lunch and dinner, since we’ve been locked indoors and all stores are closed anyway. But after an onion & bacon omelet with cheddar grits for breakfast, I wanted something a little more vegetable for dinner. My pantry isn’t fully stocked, but I do try to keep some basics on hand, like canned beans and tomatoes and stock and stuff. I found a few carrots in the fridge, some just-about-to-turn-rubbery small colored potatoes, I had 1/2 an onion, and bacon is always welcome more than once a day anyway – so I came up with this skillet: Potato bacon hash, carrot studded tomato sauce, with baked egg, melted farmhouse cheddar, and garlic Texas toast for dipping. Super hot, *really* comforting, and served in a cast-iron skillet heavy enough to use as a weapon to beat back terrorists: just what we needed to feel safe and satisfied after a surreal day.

Lockdown Hash

8-10 small potatoes (these are purple, red, and creamer)
1 can peeled tomatoes
1/2 onion, diced
1 cup diced carrots
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup red wine
1/2 cup EVOO
4 sliced bacon
4 tbs butter
2 eggs
4 thick slices of toast
garlic powder, sea salt, cracked black pepper, crushed red pepper, oregano

I start by dicing my onion, carrot…

… and garlic.

I throw them in a hot pan with a glug of EVOO to sauteI add a dash of salt, pepper, and oregano, and cook on medium heat until just translucent — about 4 minutes.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: San Marzano canned tomatoes are the best. I crack me a can.

And dump all the contents into the pan with the aromatics.

Then I add my wine and about 1/2 cup of EVOO.

I set the heat on low, cover the pan, and let my sauce cook for about 30 minutes until thickened. At some point, since I’m anxious watching the news unfold, I end up breaking down the tomatoes into smaller pieces. Meaning, I just sort of stand there stabbing at them with my wooden spatula, splattering my clothes since my eyes are riveted on the TV. After the 30 minutes, I remove the lid and let the liquid start to boil off, to make a nice, thick, chunky sauce.

On one of my back burners, I boiled my potatoes in salted water for about 15 minutes, or until I was able to pierce them easily with a knife. I drained and cooled them, and have now cut them into small pieces.

I get my two small skillets nice and hot on my burners, and I fry off two slices of chopped bacon in each. I add a LOT of cracked black pepper to each pan, too – just ‘cuz.

Once my bacon is nice and crisp, and all the fat has rendered and is sizzling, I split my potato pieces evenly between the two pans, laying them in a single layer across the surface, to let them sear for a couple minutes. After they’ve crisped on the hot edge, I stir gently to flip, and sear again. I do this for about 8 minutes, stirring every once in a while so that the pulpy cuts of potato can crisp and brown against the iron heat.

When the home fries/hash browned potatoes are perfectly crisped, I push them to one side of each pan.

On the other side, I layer my nicely thickened chunky tomato sauce. Sort of a yin-yang thing.

I’ve shaved several nice thin sheets of cheddar off the block, which I layer on top of my potatoes and tomatoes.

And in a well between them all, I crack a single egg. My oven is preheated to 400 degrees, and I throw the pans onto the bottom most shelf, and let them bake for about 7 minutes — until the egg whites have just set, and the cheese is melted and bubbling.

Since I started writing this post 20 minutes ago, there has been another volley of gunshots, and the media is hopeful that that heralds a resolution to today’s drama. There hasn’t been any movement in hours; but now something seems to be happening. This blog is as much to show off my cooking as it is to remind me of my life, like a diary; each meal brings me back to a moment in my past in ways no other experience can do. Tonight’s meal was heartwarming, comforting, true homestyle, delicious, and filling — as many of my meals have been; but, given the historic events unfurling within hearing distance of my humble little condo, I doubt I could ever forget it, even if I hadn’t written it down. But I felt a need to share – and if I could have made this for every one of my local peeps, waiting like me for news that the suspect has been caught, and that all is safe (more or less) – I would have. These pictures, and this insignificant story, are my small way of sharing.

Stay safe, my dear readers. Lolita out.

Braised Short Rib Matzohdilla

I get my inspiration from all sorts of places. Since the husbandman and I are on the cheap these days, I usually peruse the menus of Boston’s finer restaurants, looking for what they’re serving which I can replicate at home. But that’s my high-brow approach; sometimes, it’s better to be influenced by popular culture. For example: Chickenhawk’s Chicken and Beans, one of my most popular posts, was inspired by this ditty on the new Looney Tunes show. Tonight’s meal crawled into my imagination thanks to Sean and Gus from USA’s Psych; a silly show, to be sure, but one that makes me laugh every time I watch it. On their 100th episode, Sean – with his customary wit – celebrates a verbal mashup of Yiddish and Spanish by coining the term “Matzohdilla”, which Gus thinks “sounds delicious”. So did I, dear readers – so did I. The concept of a quesadilla made with matzohs instead of tortillas just lit me on fire! My mind immediately conjured a delectable vision of crusty pressed unleavened flat-grilled crackers stuffed with gooey cheese and savory meat, served Mexican style with some guac and sour cream for garnish. I ran pell-mell to Whole Foods to make my dream a reality.

Braised Shortrib Matzohdilla

1lb boneless short ribs
1 can diced tomatoes with green chiles
1 qt beef broth
3 slices bacon
1 can black beans
1 bottle dark beer
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 lb cheddar cheese
6oz cream cheese
1 avocado
1 small red onion
3-4 tablespoons minced cilantro
4-5 tablespoons diced tomatoes
4 matzohs
sour cream
garlic powder, red chile powder, ground cumin, black pepper, sea salt, smoked paprika, onion powder, EVOO

My original idea was to make carnitas for this meal, but I figured I was already slapping kosher in the face with the inclusion of cheese and cream cheese in my recipe; pork would just be cruelly insensitive. (Of course, I ended up using bacon in my beans (see below), but bacon doesn’t count, right?) Instead, I chose some lovely beef short ribs; I rubbed them down with a nice healthy blend of my dry spices (salt, pepper, cumin, garlic & onion powder, paprika, chile powder), and dusted them with flour before searing them thoroughly in hot EVOO in a large pan deep enough to submerge them in braising liquids.

After they’ve been browned on each side and all the edges, I dump my tomatoes and 1/2 my minced garlic into the pan…

…before adding my broth. These babies floated a bit, but they eventually sunk to the bottom. I throw a lid on top, lower my heat to a bare simmer, and let these braise for about 90 minutes…

… or until I can easily shred the meat with a fork – like so. Um: YUM!

Apparently, I can’t avoid pork. I tried – I really did. But before I even knew my auto-pilot had kicked in, I’d done gone and fried up a few slices to include in my beans. What can I say? I’m a degenerate.

After my bacon crisped, I dumped in my beans and a few scoopfuls of the braising liquid from the shortribs, and my bottle of beer. I let these simmer on medium heat until most of the liquid had burned off, then I mash up everything with a fork to give them a nice, spreadable texture.

Time to break out the matzohs! I spread cream cheese on each cracker, then layer them with meat, beans, and cheese before carefully pressing them together.

Like so!

I get my largest, non-stick skillet set to medium, and I brush it down thoroughly with a little EVOO.

I very carefully lay my matzohdilla in the pan, pressing down gingerly to flatten. I made two of these – one for me, and one for El Husbandious; I sort of snapped one, but I am happy to say they stayed together pretty well, enough so that none of the filling leached out. As the matzohs heated in the oil, they became slightly pliable – but without losing their crunch!

The trick to an excellent grilled cheese anything is time. The heat should be set at a relatively low level, or else the outside can burn before the inside melts. With constant gentle pressure, it took about 5 minutes on each side for these babies to cook up, and for all the cheddar cheese inside to melt and ooze. Since I only had one pan large enough, I had to make these in shifts; I placed the cooked one on a sheet in a low oven to stay warm while I grilled up the other one.

See how nice? All my cheese is gooey and ready, and the matzohdilla is born!

In a separate bowl, I whip up a quick guacamole: mashed avocado, diced tomato, diced red onion, minced garlic and cilantro, paprika, salt, pepper, and chile powder. Mix that all up, and you’re good to go.

My cultural mash-up is complete! I can’t really express how good this was: the matzohs stayed crispy and crackly, but they didn’t fall apart or crumble under the pressure of my teeth; the cream cheese/cheddar cheese blend was rich and creamy, with the cheese stretching from bite to bite like a most excellent pizza; the savory beans and tender, shredded meat were hot, flavorful, and delicious. I admit, Clayton and I rather laughed our way through the whole meal. It was freaking amazing, but I’d never seen or heard anything quite like it before (and I searched the internet for recipes – to no avail!), and it just seemed so silly to have been inspired by a cast-off quote from a TV show. But, in this case, silly was super-delicious. I wonder what other mash-ups I can come up with? Chicken Tikka Chow Fun? Caribbean Cassoulet? Pad Thai Pizza? Suggestions are welcome!

Weeknight Wondermeal: Pork Chops Pizzaiola

It’s been a while since I’ve posted a good Weeknight Wondermeal, which I characterize as having very few ingredients (less than $20 worth) and very little effort or time. Y’see, I work at Harvard with a slew of excellent undergrads, and as they go off into the real world clutching their diplomas and dreaming of a future wealthy with either success or fulfillment (hopefully both), they need a little help transitioning. And this is a dinner I expect any of my Harvard kids to be able to execute. Hell, if they can do a Western blot, they should be able to figure out how to braise a pork chop in tomato sauce and boil water for pasta. Once they do, they’ll be able to feed their bodies as much as they’ve fed their minds.

Pork Chops Pizzaiola

2 6-8 ounce center cut pork chops (about 1/2″ thick)
2-3 tbs flour
1 medium/large white onion
1 can diced tomatoes in juice
8oz button or baby bella mushrooms
1 qt beef or chicken stock
4 slices provolone cheese
1 cup pasta
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
4 tbs butter, divided
sea salt, cracked black pepper, garlic powder, EVOO

Start by rinsing and patting dry your pork chops, before sprinkling them generously with salt and pepper. Dust them with flour, too.

Get a large skillet nice and hot, and add 2 tbs butter and a glug of EVOO to the pan. Place your pork chops on the sizzling surface and sear for about 4 minutes.

Flip your chops, and sear on the other side for another couple minutes until nicely golden brown.

After peeling and dicing your onion, and washing all the dirt from your mushrooms, chuck all that into the pan, too. Mix around a bit to heat through.

Add the tomatoes…

… then add the broth. Your chops should be just submerged under the broth. Get everything to a nice simmer, then chuck the whole pan into a 350° oven to bake for 45 minutes. (This is a little long for a Weeknight Wondermeal, but considering how little effort is required to make this dinner, I figure it still qualifies.)

After said time, your chops should be practically falling off the bone, the tomato sauce should be nicely reduced, and your mushrooms should be plump and pregnant with juiciness. Lay 2 slices of provolone cheese over each chop, then throw the pan back in the oven for about 5-10 minutes until the cheese is melted and bubbly.

This dish goes with pasta, rice, or mashed potatoes. I like it best with pasta. These shells have been cooked to just al dente, then tossed with butter, a little parmesan cheese, salt, and pepper.

Juicy, tender, unctuously delicious pork chops draped with ooey-gooey smoked cheese, and served with its sauce over pasta. A dash of parsley to add color to the plate will make you look all fancy-pants, too. Serve this with some crusty bread for sopping, and you’ve got a dinner worth that Harvard degree!

Queen Grits: Scallops, Shrimp, Serrano Ham, and Ouzo Cream with Chives

There are a handful of pseudo-cliches I could start this posting with, like “you can take a girl out of the South, but you can’t take the South out of a girl”, and “once a redneck always a redneck,” and “roots run deep” – but I couldn’t possibly do that, could I? Instead, I’ll straight up admit it: I love shrimp and grits. It’s a classic dish o’ mine, stemming from a season working at Jim Shaw’s on Vineville after college, where they serve their grits as a side dish, but where the perfect compatibility of shellfish and hominy first entered my consciousness. A few years later, in the Florida pan-handle, I enjoyed the Boss Grits at Boss Oyster, the first time I’d seen OTHER stuff thrown into the bowl – like bits o’ pork and a sweet white sauce. Tonight’s dinner is a variation on this theme: succulent shrimp and seared scallops atop cheddar grits with sauteed Serrano ham and my favorite ouzo cream. The meal is warm and satisfying, steaming and buttery, fragrant and briny, unctuous and sweet: a perfect plate, in less than 30 minutes. If you’ve never married grits to sea critters before, I urge you to correct that discrepancy in your gastronomic resume. You’ll be glad that you did.

Cheddar Grits with Shrimp, Scallops, Serrano Ham, Chives, and Ouzo Cream Sauce

1 cup grits
4 1/2 cups water, salted
4 tbs butter
1/4# slab Serrano ham (about 1/2″ thick)
4 large shrimp
2 large scallops
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1 cup cream
1/2 cup Ouzo
3 tbs chopped fresh chives
sea salt, cracked black pepper, Adobo seasoning, paprika

This is, at heart, a very simple meal. I start by getting a few tablespoons of butter melting in my largest non-stick fry pan, while I get my water boiling for my grits on the back burner.

Once the foam has subsided, I throw my chopped Serrano ham into the lightly browned fat to saute and crisp.

Moving these meat bits around often, I toast them up really good. I add a dash of black pepper and some paprika to the pan as well, which combines with the smoked pork to make a dizzying aroma.

Once my water comes to a boil, I stir in my grits well, lower the temperature to simmer, and cover the pan for about 10 minutes – reaching in to stir only once or twice.

I wish I had a flat grill, but alas. Instead, I’m crafty. I push all my cooked ham to one side of my pan, which I slide off the burner and balance on the raised edge of my stove – which is at the same height as the burner itself. This leaves an exposed half of my pan directly over the heat, and allows my pork to stay warm but without the element underneath. When you have a crappy kitchen, you learn to improvise.

On the exposed surface of the pan, which is still glistening with porkypaprika-y goodness, I layer my shrimp (which I’ve peeled to just the end of the tail) and my scallops, which I’ve sprinkled with salt and pepper. I let them sear for about 3 minutes on each side, until the shrimp is perfectly opaque, and my scallops are seared to a crispy golden brown exterior.

Meanwhile, my grits are cooked perfectly, so I toss in 1 tbs butter and all my shredded cheddar cheese, which I mix in well. I also add a dash of Adobo seasoning – which has garlic and pepper in it as well as salt. This I blend well until all the cheese is melted.

At the last few moments, I remove my proteins from the pan, and put them aside on a warm dish. I put the pan back on the burner, add my last tablespoon of butter until it melts, then in goes my sweet sweet ouzo. I let this reduce for about a minute over high heat.

In goes my cream, which I whisk in very well, leaving the heat on high so it can bubble and boil.

It thickens nicely.

A steaming mound of warm, sharp cheddar grits are surrounded by a pool of fennel scented rich cream. Mounded on top of this tempting pile are the buttery shrimp, sweet seared scallops, and salty crispy-edged tidbits of Spanish jamon, scattered with the mild oniony tang of snipped chives. Wholesome, delicious, and heart-warming. What better for a weeknight dinner after a long day’s work?

Roasted Game Hens, Brussels Sprouts, Tiny Potatoes, Bacon Hollandaise, Poached Egg

Besides being a full time college administrator and a part-time blogger, I also help teach writing intensive classes in English Literature at Harvard, and this semester we are studying Darwin’s theory of evolution (in terms of the impact On the Origin of Species had on the 19th century novel). Perhaps that fact, along with a small plate of sprouts I enjoyed at Michael Schlow’s new joint, The Sinclair, the other night, inspired this chicken/egg creation: a partially de-boned Cornish game hen served with roasted Brussels sprouts and tiny wee potatoes, topped with fried onions, bacon hollandaise sauce, and a poached egg. This was NOT an easy dinner to prepare! De-boning the hens still takes me a while, making hollandaise sauce while poaching eggs requires a Doctor Octopus-like physiology, and there were a lot of little component parts that had to be executed all at the same time in order to serve everything hot together. But, dear reader, was it worth it! My tender, juicy hen covered in the runny golden goodness of cousin yolks paired with the earthy herbaceousness of caramelized baby cabbages, white potatoes, and flash fried onions was the perfect offering for a chilly, windy, and wet late winter’s dinner.

Roasted Game Hens, Brussels Sprouts, Tiny Potatoes, Bacon Hollandaise, Poached Egg

2 game hens, breast and back bones removed
2 small whole sweet onions, peeled, trimmed, and boiled in water until tender
20-3o Brussels sprouts
10-20 tiny white potatoes
4 slices bacon
1/2 cup diced white onion
4 egg yolks
2 whole eggs
1 1/2 sticks butter
EVOO
flour, sea salt, cracked black pepper, white wine vinegar

I’ve presented de-boned game hens once before on this blog (check it out here), when I went into great detail about how to remove the back bones and breast bones of these little beasties – but today I didn’t have the time to take all the pictures. There are some good tutorials on YouTube, too – which I refer to each time I go through this procedure. I’m still not as efficient as it as I’d like (read: it takes me a long time, and I cuss like a sailor throughout the whole process), but the results have been wonderful each time. By removing these portions of the skeleton, you are making these otherwise difficult to eat birdies a breeze! The only bones left are in the legs and wings, but one can carve right through the body of the bird with a delicate knife to gather up rich, whole mouthfuls of succulent, juicy chicken. However, once those bones are removed, you are left with a rather deflated critter, so I like to give it back some shape by stuffing something yummy and roundish back into the chest cavity. In this case I did so with tiny sweet boiled onions, which I’d peeled and trimmed (leaving them whole by keeping just the butt of the bulb intact) and cooked until easily pierced with a fork. Then I trussed up the birds with some twine so they’d maintain their shape. After rubbing them down with salt and pepper, I set them aside until I was ready for them.

I neglected to add these important components of the meal to my set-up shot, so here’s a little something for you now. I only need about a 1/2 cup of diced onion, and I fry the slices of bacon until crispy. Oh, and when I said tiny potatoes, I meant TINY — these bad boys are about the circumference of my thumb, and no more than a knuckle long. And I’ve got baby hands, people.

These I partially peel…

… and the sprouts I trim and halve, keeping the really small ones whole.

I’m able to spread both veggies out on the same baking sheet – which is good since they’ll take about the same amount of time to cook. They’ve all been doused in EVOO, salt, and pepper, and the sprouts I lay cut-side down.

The trick to a meal this complex is having everything ready to go at the same time. On my back right burner, I’ve got a water bath set up to double-boil my hollandaise sauce, which starts with a stick of butter melting in the small bowl resting on my tongs. On the right I have a large pot with several inches of water set to a simmer to poach my eggs. The front burner has my largest fry-pan, a couple glugs of EVOO, and some more butter which I heated to a foaming mass before gently placing my birds within. I meant to put them both breast side up at first, but their floppy, skeleton-less anatomy confused me, so one’s face up and the other is face down. No harm done.

“The lost art of the arroser.” I had the pleasure of discovering this term in print just when I needed to find it – since I engaged in said art when preparing tonight’s dinner. This refers to the technique of spooning hot fat oven the up-side of a protein searing in a pan, so it can gently cook on both sides at the same time. I’ve seen this on Iron Chef and other cooking shows, and I’ve mimicked it to great effect in the past, but I’ve never known what it was called. Thanks, New York Times. Anyway, given that it takes two hands – one to tilt the pan, the other to spoon the butteroil – I couldn’t take a good shot of me in action, but suffice to say that as my birds sizzled, I basted them continually with hot golden deliciousness for about 5 minutes of sear time before flipping them.

Damn they look good. I do the same technique for the flip side of each bird before I get them both settled, breast side down (so they’re resting on their “elbows”, so to speak). This is crunch time: it will take 25 minutes for the sprouts, potatoes, and chickens to roast off in a 350° oven. The pan with the veggies goes on the bottom rack – which is closest to the heat source in my oven – and the chickens go in their pan onto the top shelf to finish baking through. I now have 20 or so minutes to get everything else done before I need to plate.

First, I toss my onions in flour, salt, and pepper before…

… frying them in some oil until crispy and brown.

Now it’s egg time. The trick to making both hollandaise sauce and poached eggs is to have everything ready in advance. Water should be at a low simmer for both preparations; the back, smaller burner for the sauce, and the front larger burger for the eggs. Given that I was under pressure to get everything out on time, I didn’t take pictures of each process, but for the hollandaise sauce you can check out this previous posting, which goes into great detail, and for the poached eggs I actually followed Kenji’s most recently posted procedure from Serious Eats. The eggs only take about 4 minutes to poach, and the hollandaise takes about 10 minutes from start to finish. After the 10 minutes prep it took to get everything ready, by the time my sauce and eggs are ready, it is just about on the minute I need to pull out my chicken and veg from the oven.

The roasted sprouts and potatoes form the bed for this little baby chicken, while the oozing yellow yolk and sauce act as its blanket, with a little scattering of fried onion bits for contrast. After cutting the trussing strings, I am able to disengage a leg from the bird with the gentlest of tugs – which, of course, I do daintily with my pinky finger extended in polite form. But once the succulent, tender, and steaming meat makes it to my tongue, all bets are off, and I throw down my silverware and just start sopping and supping with complete abandon. The richness of the sauce and yolk are offset by the salty bacon and deeply caramelized sprouts, and the potatoes add just the right amount of starch to the plate. This was a dinner that was lovely to look at, but even better to eat.

Sous Vide Veal Tenderloin, Honey Roasted Carrots, Potato Crisps, Gorgonzola Cream, Demi-Glaze, Gremolata

The reason why we omnivores like veal is because of how tender it is. Yes, the little critters are confined to a very small pen which keeps them from moving around a lot, which keeps their flesh meltingly soft by preventing the development of tougher muscles, which many people think is sad (or atrocious, depending upon your ilk). I have no such scruples: I am gluttonous for foie gras; I revel in veal; I love lobsters boiled live; hell, I’d enjoy an ortolon if I ever got the chance to eat one. If you consider me inhumane because of my eating habits, I certainly respect your opinion… but I’ll likely not invite you over for dinner when I’m pulling out all the stops.

All this is just preamble, though. I bring up the tenderness of veal for one reason: to say that it’s even MORE tender when cooked sous vide. Although not a particularly old technique, sealing foods in air-tight bags and cooking them in a water-bath set to the temperature at which the food should be served is optimal for several purposes: by cooking the food in this manner, there is no risk of over-cooking, and there is no drying out of the surface layers of proteins by virtue of the much higher heat needed to bring the internal temp to the right degree; something magical with collagens and proteins and cellular stuff happens at a lower heat held for a long time — tissues turn to gelatin, and juices stay locked in place; and meats need only a quick browning on a hot pan at the last minute before service. But sous vide cookery generally requires the purchase of a prohibitively expensive and very space-consuming piece of equipment, since since money and space are two things I don’t have, I thought I’d have to struggle with maintaining the temperature in a saucepan on my stove, which I’ve done successfully once before, but which took lots of time standing by the stove stirring and adjusting the water with flame and ice (figuratively speaking). Tonight’s technique was MUCH EASIER. And the results? Veal so perfectly cooked and tender I could cut it with a sharp glance. Doused with demi-glaze, served with potato crisps draped with gorgonzola cream, honey roasted carrots, and a snappy Meyer lemon gremolata, dinner transported me to Nirvana with each and every sweet sweet bite.

Sous Vide Veal Tenderloin, Honey Roasted Carrots, Potato Crisps, Gorgonzola Cream, Demi-Glaze, Gremolata

1lb veal tenderloin, trimmed
4 tbs butter
1 tbs dried tarragon leaves
1 small bunch slender carrots
3 tbs EVOO
3 tbs honey
1 large russet potato
3 oz gorgonzola cheese
1/4 cup cream
1 Meyer lemon
4 tbs minced parsley
2 cloves garlic, minced
sea salt, cracked black pepper, dried oregano, dried rosemary
1 package Classic Demi-Glaze Gold

Instead of a set-up shot, showing all my ingredients, I shall instead show you the star of tonight’s show: my Igloo cooler. Based upon Serious Eats’ brilliant life hack article, I now know I don’t need to buy a ridiculously expensive piece of equipment to sous vide – all I need is a $20 cooler. Y’see, not only do these babies keep things cool, they keep things HOT, too. For anything that can be cooked sous vide in less than 5 hours and in less than 160° water (these are my approximations), a nice, tight sealing cooler will do the trick.

I start by rinsing, then patting dry, my veal tenderloin. After rubbing it down with salt and pepper, I put a few pats of butter on the meat, along with the tarragon…

… before wrapping it tightly in plastic.

The whole package then gets set inside a large freezer zipper bag, and using a straw, I get as much air out of it as possible. I zipped the bag up as close to the straw as I could before I started sucking like a Hoover vacuum cleaner, then I even slightly zipped across the straw while sliding it out of the bag so that as little air as possible would leach back into the bag before it was sealed completely. SeriousEats points out that one can also submerge as much of the bag as possible in water before sealing to push out all the air, but every time I’ve tried that I’ve always spilled a little water into the bag – and I didn’t want to get my meat wet. This worked fine.

I thought I would have to use a kettle to get my water hot enough, but my kitchen faucet delivers water at close to 160° – so I actually had to add a little cold water to get my temp to a little over 142° F. I then filled up my largest, heaviest measuring vessel with hot water, too, so it would submerge – which I used to anchor my bag of meat which still wanted to float. I shut the cooler, and walked away for 90 minutes.

Meanwhile, I used my mandoline set at the thickest setting to slice my russet potato into substantial chips.

I placed them in a single layer on top of a baking paper lined cookie sheet, and then brushed them with EVOO before sprinkling some salt, pepper, rosemary, and oregano on them.

I also trimmed the greens off my carrots, peeled them, and spread them across a ceramic baking dish.

Someone gave me this lovely raw honey, which is very potent and delicious.

The carrots get doused in EVOO, salt, pepper, and honey, and then both they and the potatoes get placed into a 400° oven for about 30 minutes. At the halfway point, I flip the potatoes and roll over the carrots for even cooking.

Gremolata is one of those condiments that isn’t used as often as it should be. The traditional mixture of minced parsley and garlic with grated lemon zest adds snap and freshness to tons of preparations, and it goes particularly well with rich meats.

A little salt, pepper, lemon juice, and EVOO gets added to the veg, and all is mixed well.

Ahhhh – gorgonzola. I melt a tbs of butter in a saucepan, add my cream, and then my gorgonzola to make a cheese sauce. On another eye, I prepare the demi-glaze with only a few ounces of water (I want a nice, rich drizzle of flavor, and not a gravy) and a dash of minced garlic.

My 90 minutes have passed, and I eagerly reach into my Igloo to see how my veal tenderloin looks. And it looks MARVELOUS. It is perfectly cooked to a lovely medium rare – but it admittedly looks a little flaccid and unappetizing all greyish like that….

… which is why I’ve got an oiled, cast iron skillet smoking on one burner. I sear my tenderloin on all sides, propping up the narrow edges (which make my meat want to roll over) by clipping the tongs in the ‘closed’ position and resting them flat against the edge of the pan. I sear for about 1 minute all the way ’round – so 6 minutes total. I’m looking for the Malliard reaction, which is a fancy way of saying I want to brown the outside of this tender morsel.

Perfect.

Just the extreme edges are tantalizingly browned, and the insides are exactly medium rare throughout.

The explosion of flavors on my plate just blew me away. The sweet carrots, crispy potatoes and sharp, creamy gorgonzola sauce, the rich, garlicky demi-glaze offset by the fresh, green gremolata, and the oh-so-silky-and-tender-and-delicious veal medallions. I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to prepare veal any other way, and now I can’t wait to try the same technique with strip steaks and filet mignon, and even eggs for perfect Benedicts. But now – I EAT!

Reconstructed Deconstructed Seafood Paella

Last week wasn’t a great one for Lolita. While Nemo buried us in two feet of snow, the tumultuous passage of a delightful kidney stone began its painful descent through my bowels, knocking me out for almost 4 days. Needless to say, I missed Valentine’s Day; it passed me by in a Percocet fueled haze. I had promised the husband-man to make him whatever he wanted for V-Day, and he requested paella – something very difficult to make in the traditional way with the crappy electric stove I’ve got. But never one to back down from a challenge, I did – in my more lucid moments – ponder how I could create a paella -type meal for the ol’ man given my kitchen’s limitations. By Saturday, I’d both birthed that stone and had figured out this dish: a deconstructed paella construct, replete with all the flavors we’d tasted that glorious spring in Barcelona when we ate panfuls of the stuff along the sparkling Mediterranean coast. My creation contains all the seafood I could pack into the dish — scallops, shrimp, cod, clams, and lobster – along with deep roasted peppers, a chicken chorizo risotto, and a saffron butter-cream. With a some toasted baguette served ala pa’ amb tomaquet, each bite transported us back to our Iberian adventures in a way only good food can do.

Reconstructed Deconstructed Seafood Paella

1 red pepper
1 green pepper
1 cup arborio rice
3-4 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup minced onion
1/2 cup dry sherry
1 tbs tomato paste
1 quart seafood stock
1 large chicken chorizo sausage
chili powder, hungarian paprika, black pepper, sea salt, EVOO
2 tbs butter
1 cup heavy cream
4-5 threads of saffron
4 littleneck clams
2 lobster claws
1/3lb cod
2 large scallops
4 large shrimp

Because it takes a little while, I start by roasting my peppers. It’s easy: roll them around in EVOO, lay them on a baking sheet, and sprinkle them with salt and pepper before throwing them in a 400° oven. Roast for about 10 minutes, rolling them over every few minutes so the skins blacken. Remove them from the heat, toss them and all the juices from the pan into a bowl, and cover with plastic wrap until cooled. Then you can remove the skins very easily. Set this aside for now.

I make risotto all the time — just search for it here on my blog and you’ll see several different preparations. This one was different for me, though, since I usually aim for a white risotto and not a red one, but it still started the same: I sauté my minced garlic and onion in EVOO in a small saucepan until just translucent, then I add my rice. I stir everything to coat well with the oil, and to toast the grains of rice a bit to make them more receptive to the liquids I’ll be adding.

First addition is wine: a nice glug or two of dry sherry, which I stir in well, cooking over low heat, until all the liquid is absorbed.

Then I start adding my seafood stock, which is simmering in another pot on the stove. You want to use warm stock, which will keep the rice cooking instead of cooling it down with each addition. I add about 4 ounces at a time, stirring well continually, until each batch of liquid has been absorbed by the rice. It takes about 30 minutes to stir a good pot of risotto.

At about the halfway point, I decide to add a tablespoon of tomato puree. Traditional paella always has a bit of tomato in it, and this concentrated condiment gives just the right of sweetness and acidic kick to the dish. Oh, and I keep adding stock and stirring.

My risotto is almost done. It has increased in volume significantly, and when I test a grain with my tongue and teeth it is just tender all the way through, with a slightly al dente center. At this point, I add all the juices from my roasted peppers, which have been sweating all their delicious goodness into the bowl all this time.

I’ve cooked my chicken chorizo and chopped it up real good like.

Along with my chopped roasted peppers, the chorizo adds the unctuousness needed for a good paella – where chicken and sausage definitely belong. I keep this warm on the back burner until I’m ready for it.

To prepare my seafood, I create a poaching liquid, starting with butter and saffron and the last 4 ounces of my seafood stock.

I whisk the contents of the pan vigorously, emulsifying the butter and stock into a rich base.

I then add my cream, and layer my seafood into the pan to gently poach. My cream/butter has been tinted a thrilling yellow from the saffron threads, and the scent emanating through the kitchen is divine. I cover the pan, shaking it from time to time to encourage the fishy stuff to swim around, before using tongs to flip each piece so it can cook through thoroughly.

When the clams are open, and the shrimp and scallops are opaque, everything is ready to serve.

Here’s where the “reconstruction” bit comes in. I’ve been obsessing about forms these days, ‘cuz I love the idea of stacked meals. I’m too cheap to spend the $20 or so on real cooking forms, so I have a tendency to cannibalize all sorts of stuff in my kitchen to make shapes I can work with. This is a tea canister from some swanky over-priced tea shack, but with the bottom removed it makes a decent, entree-sized form for my purposes. I start by laying my strips of pepper out on the plate, before spooning a layer of rice into the form, followed by bits of the cooked cod, another layer of rice, then a layer with my shrimp and scallops, before topping it off with more risotto.

Crowning my tower of delight is my succulent lobster claw, which is flanked by eat-me clams and standing in a rich, sweet pool of saffron butter-milk. I’ve toasted some slices of baguette, rubbed them with garlic, and served them with a tomato half doused with EVOO, garlic, and sea salt – which is scraped across the crusty bread, leaving a swathe of tasty red yumminess to compliment the dish. All the component parts of a paella are here: fresh, tender seafood, rich, creamy rice, roasted peppers and spicy sausage, chicken, and of course, saffron. An elegant meal in honor of a long love affair: with both my husband, and food glorious food.

What Lolita Eats…

Eating. Without it, I couldn't survive.

Lockdown Hash

Braised Short Rib Matzohdilla

Weeknight Wondermeal: Pork Chops Pizzaiola

Queen Grits: Scallops, Shrimp, Serrano Ham, and Ouzo Cream with Chives

Roasted Game Hens, Brussels Sprouts, Tiny Potatoes, Bacon Hollandaise, Poached Egg

Sous Vide Veal Tenderloin, Honey Roasted Carrots, Potato Crisps, Gorgonzola Cream, Demi-Glaze, Gremolata

Reconstructed Deconstructed Seafood Paella

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